The famous Pakistani climber Sirbaz Khan on Sunday successfully clogged Mount Kangchenjunga (8,586 meters), the third highest peak in the world located in Nepal this morning without supplementary oxygen.
With this last achievement, it becomes the first Pakistani in history to complete the 14 peaks of 8,000 meters from the world, commonly known as the eight miles, without any oxygen support, a feat achieved only by a handful of elite mountaineers worldwide.
Sirbaz had previously become the first Pakistani climber to have accumulated the 14 mountains with the height of more than 8,000 m in the world in October last year.
Imagine Nepal, the organizers of the Sirbaz tour in a statement congratulated the climb 2025.
Secretary Alpine Club del Pakistan, Karrar Haidri, said: “With this summit, Sirbaz Khan becomes the first Pakistani to climb the 14 highest peaks without oxygen.
“Sirbaz Khan has proud of the entire nation. Completing the 14 thousand eight thousand without oxygen is a weird and heroic achievement. It is a symbol of Pakistanis resistance, skill and courage in the highest peaks in the world,” he added.
Sirbaz achieved a milestone in the history of escalation at great altitude by successfully inventing Mount Kangchenjunga this morning at 5:00 am local time (4:15 am Pkt).
What makes this feat is extraordinary is that it served the third highest mountain in the world without the use of supplementary oxygen, in a true alpine style, marking a decisive moment in the length of Mountainism of Pakistan.
Sirbaz’s trip to this historic milestone has covered more than a decade of determination, discipline and pure courage. The following 14 peaks of more than 8,000 m have climbed successfully, all without bottled oxygen:
- Everest (8,848m)
- K2 (8,611m)
- Kangchenjunga (8,586m)
- Lhotse (8,516m)
- Makalu (8,485m)
- Cho Oyu (8,188m)
- Dhaulagiri (8,167m)
- Manaslu (8,163m)
- Nanga Parbat (8,126m)
- Annapurna I (8,091m)
- Gasherbrum I (8,080m)
- Broad Peak (8,051m)
- Gasherbrum II (8,035m)
- Shishapangma (8,027m)
This record summit of Mount Kangchenjunga not only consolidates the place of Sirbaz Khan among the best mountaineers of all time, but also brings great pride to the people of Pakistan, particularly to the Gilgit-Baltistan mountainism community, where it serves.
His achievement was made in the spirit of the Pure Alpine climb: minimum equipment, without fixed ropes or camps established by Sherpas, and without oxygen support, a style that represents the most true and demanding form of mountaineering.
The Sirbaz mission has always been to represent Pakistan in the highest stages in the world and inspire the next generation of climbers to follow their way with the same passion and perseverance.
Sirbaz, 35, comes from the Aliabad de Hunza area in Gilgit-Baltistan and began his escalation career in 2016.
In four of these expeditions, he had been accompanied by the late Muhammad Ali Sadpa.
Before establishing the mission at the Summit of Dhaulagiri Peak last year, he had said: “I am anxious for his expedition and reaching the dream of my mentor Ali Sadpa, who had the similar dream of climbing the 14 highest peaks, but tragically lost his life earlier this year during a winter expedition in K2”.
Pakistani climbers, including Naila Kiani, Sajid Sadpa, members of civil society and politicians have congratulated Sirbaz for their historical feat.
